Ivan Whitworth referenced the Whole House fan’s low electrical draw and high air flow (CFM) as an energy efficient way to cool a home.

Island Cooling’s Whole House fan is an energy efficient way to cool the home by bringing in fresh outside air and ventilating the attic at the same time.  For more information on the New Hawaiian Home Project.

We will keep you posted as we file the paperwork and launch the program. We look forward to the progress of sustainabilty and the growth of our business and friendships in Hawaii.

Hau’oli Makahiki Hou!

• R-value: 11.6 heat flow down
• R-value: 8.3 heat flow up
• Enhances Rvalue and performance of existing mass insulation.

Attic heat begins with radiant heat from the sun. Radiant heat gets the ball rolling by heating the air inside the attic space. Next convection occurs as hotter air rises and cooler air sinks. As the air and contents of the attic become saturated with heat, they begin to emit heat to their surroundings. The heat emitting from those surroundings (including the fiberglass insulation inside the attic) conducts through the ceiling drywall and into the cooler living space of the home.

This scenario reverses itself in winter. Since hot air moves toward cooler air, without a reflective insulation in your attic, the heated air inside your home travels right out through the attic.

SolarGuard Reflective Insulation stops radiant heat from getting in during the summer and from getting out during the winter. Installing SolarGuard inside the attic isn’t an upgrade, its essential to controlling heat at its source. Regardless of how much insulation you have in your attic, adding SolarGuard Reflective Insulation will save on your heating and cooling expenses, and keep you much more comfortable. Energy savings for heating and cooling can vary from 17% to 25%.

SolarGuard Foil/Fiberglass/Foil Perforated Installation Instructions:

Foil/Foil Perforated SolarGuard Reflective Insulation

(There are 3 options)
Always use Foil/Fiberglass/Foil Perforated SolarGuard to avoid condensation problems
1. Underside of Rafter Method
Check the attic area and make any needed repairs before installing SolarGuard.
Using 4’ wide material, unroll SolarGuard as you work and cut it to desired lengths (8’ to 12’) with scissors.
At the eaves start material 6” above the existing insulation
Install product perpendicular to the rafters with a 2” overlap on the seams (no taping required). Staple the product to the rafters at 2” to 3” intervals.
Leave a 2” gap on each side of the roof peak
Staple to the face of the studs every 12 inches apart and on gables and insure at least a 1” gap around all vents.

2. Between Joist Application:
Use either 16” or 24” wide product (depending on rafter spacing).
Begin at the top of the cavity and work down.
Staple material with a minimum of 1” space from the roof decking material (OSB or Plywood).
At the eaves, leave 6” of space above the existing insulation.
At the ridge vent, leave at least 2” of uncovered space short of the peak of the roof.
No need to cover rafters (no loop around).
3. Ceiling Joist Application (Blanket Fashion)

Note: Dust accumulation on the product detracts from benefits. Dust (this application only) must be removed periodically to maintain effectiveness.
Cut product into 8’ to 12’ sections.
Lay directly over the top of the ceiling joists.
Cut openings in the product above any heat generating devices (ex: light mounted in ceiling).
Overlap seams 2”. Drape over any ducts close to the attic floor.
Cut around truss work as necessary.

Ventilation:
Good ventilation is essential for proper attic function. Leaving the recommended spacing at the ridge and eaves will ensure proper airflow. Be sure not to block ventilation paths when you install SolarGuard.

I’ve made it my mission to cut the utility bills at every home we’ve owned. Long before I learned about the risks of climate change, I was fanatical about energy efficiency because I’m cheap.

Whenever my wife and I move into a new home, I check the attic for adequate insulation. I look for leaks around doors and windows and install a programmable thermostat if needed. In our latest home, I’ve also insulated our water pipes with inexpensive foam from our local hardware store and painted mastic sealant on the seams of the air ducts. When our hot water heater needed replacement, we installed a tank-less water heater which decreased our summer-time gas use by 50%. In the summer, we found that setting the thermostat at 77 – 78 degrees and a gentle breeze from a fan was all that is required to be comfortable.

So far, we are on track to cut our utility bills by about half compared to the previous owner, but we are doing more. Our home has two large skylights that funnel too much heat out in the winter and let too much heat in the summer. We intend to replace these older windows with modern widows with five times the efficiency.

Read more at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/steven-chu/weatherization-saving-mon_b_339935.html

The open house is this Sunday, October 25th, you are welcome to come by 10am – 12pm and 2pm-5pm.

Please email info@islandcooling.com or call us for directions.

Aloha!

Passive cooling

Technologies or designs used to cool a space without power consumption. Examples of passive cooling include reducing the amount of heat that enters your home and removing heat with ventilation. The following are simple ideas for staying cool this summer. Because passive cooling requires little to no electricity, you can sit back and relax—you’re guaranteed to see savings on your energy bills, and who doesn’t enjoy a little fresh air?
Read the Article: http://www.hawaiihomeandremodeling.com/articles/2009/July/cooling